Appetizers

In True Tuscan (HarperCollins, 2005), Cesare Casella writes:
Over the years I've read various "theories" on
antipasti, mostly having to do with foods designed to
stimulate the appetite or somehow prepare the diner
for the meal that follows. My own theory is that it's
all about social order, that appetizers are a way of
showing how refined a diner or his host is ... I'm no
blueblood, but I am a true believer in multiple
courses. The trick, of course, is to serve food well,
without overwhelming yourself with too much work or
your guests with too much food.
I can't tell you what a revelation this was for me to read. Now, I will have a party with only small plated dishes, or I will have a regular dinner party, but I do not often make appetizers for my dinner parties. We once had a visiting researcher from Mexico, and I made an appetizer when we had him over for dinner, but that was one of only a few times I combined the two. As it is, my husband and I are both university faculty and I have all of a sudden realized that, for certain crowds, it would be the thing to do. And what fun to do something a little more extravagant than usual.

By themselves, I am a huge fan of appetizers and hors d'oeuvres. The idea of of them, eating them, and preparing them, are all appealing to me. When I used to have more time available to entertain and to cook for general pleasure, I would make a dozen different kinds at a time. My stepson and I once prepared seven hours straight for a faculty reception my husband and I were giving for a wonderful Parisian friend, Jean-Pierre, who was staying with us for a couple of weeks. One book I used a lot for that event was the fabulous Martha Stewart's Hors D'Oeuvres Handbook (Clarkson Potter, 1999). For that party, we made Chèvre grapes, Smoked turkey on blueberry scones, Baked honey shrimp with baguette rounds, Shaved roast beef on baguette rounds with horseradish cream, Bratwurst slices with French mustard, Date-nut bread topped with cream cheese and peach chutney, Bleu and cream cheese spread on dried pear slices, Grape tomatoes stuffed with anchovies, capers and Parmesan, Spicy-sweet blanched almonds, and Brownies with walnuts. I also used the Joy of Cooking for those. We made the bread from a dough I had prepared the day before. The date-nut bread, blueberry scones and brownies we made that day. We peeled 10 pounds of shrimp, we scooped out dozens of grape tomatoes and globe grapes and stuffed them one by one. The pear slices with bleu and cream cheese spread each had a single herb sprig on top. Everything was so lovely, and the party was relaxed and fun. It was quite a while ago now that we did this, but I will try to find a picture of the spread and post it sometime.

I have done a few parties similar to that (and I once did a dessert party that was elaborate, but lost on my college-age friends at the time) and I dream about putting together another one.

Until then, I will just start to think up a menu. And I'll give you a fun recipe from The Pooh Party Book (Dutton, 1971) that would be elegant for a party.

Violet Honey Sauce for Ice Cream or Cake

1-2 large bunches of violets
1 pint jar with lid
boiling water
2 lemons, juiced
1 teaspoon water
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup honey
2 tablespoons cornstarch (optional)

- If you live where violets grow, then you can make this delicious Honey Sauce for cake and ice cream.
- Wash the violets and remove the stems.
- Pack the violet blossoms into the jar. Fill it full.
- Cover the violet blossoms with boiling water and let stand for 24 hours.
- Strain the violet water and add the lemon juice.
- In a teaspoon of water over a low flame, mix the sugar and honey together until syrupy.
- Add the violet water and lemon juice.
- This is a delicious sauce which you can thicken with the cornstarch, over low heat, if you like.
But, as it happened, it was Rabbit
who saw Piglet first. Piglet had
got up early that morning to pick
himself a bunch of violets.
From The House at Pooh Corner