Over the years, I have collected all of the Moosewood cookbooks, just because. They were written by different people each time, and some of the books are better than others. I purchased the Moosewood Restaurant Book of Desserts when it came out in 1997. I leafed through it when I got it and saw lots of things that I wanted to try. The Navajo Peach Crumble was outstanding, made with fresh, super-ripe peaches and a cornmeal topping. The sandy cornmeal with the baked peach compote underneath was a perfect combination. The Butterscotch Banana Cream Pie was very good, and so was the Pumpkin Cheesecake, the 110th Street Walnut Crescents and the Cornmeal Cookies. Etc. A few of the spiced items are a little under-spicy for me, but I just add more cinnamon, nutmeg, or whatever, to those things and then they are great.
The really great recipe from this book, though, has turned out to be the rhubarb cake. I make it two or three times a year when rhubarb is in season, and it's always devoured within hours. It's very easy to make and is spongy and a little bit eggy tasting. It is the right sweetness for the amount of rhubarb that is called for. As I have been writing, I had a piece. Then I went back for another just after that.
Here is the recipe. If you make it, let me know what you think of it.
Erma Mabel's Rhubarb Cake
Rhubarb is one of those welcome, reliable, carefree perennials that herald the spring in gardens throughout the whole eastern United States, and out West, too. The beautiful ruby stalks make great pies, cakes, and sauces. They cook up soft and have a tangy fruit flavor. Thankfully, rhubarb stalks are available seasonally in markets everywhere. The leaves of the plant are always discarded because they are inedible and poisonous.
Here is a recipe that originated many generations ago in the hills and hollows of north central West Virginia. It made its way to Ithaca, New York, and onto the Moosewood menu via Erma Mabel's granddaughter, Lisa Wichman, and great granddaughter, Robin Wichman--both dessert chefs at the restaurant.
Serves 8
1/2 cup butter, at room temperature
1 cup sugar
3 large eggs
1 1/2 cups unbleached white flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 1/2 cups chopped rhubarb* (about 4 stalks)
*Cut the rhubarb into 3/4- to 1-inch pieces
Preheat the oven to 350°. Butter the baking dish and lightly dust it with flour.
With an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar until light. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Combine the milk and vanilla in a small bowl or cup. Alternate adding the dry and the wet ingredients to the butter mixture, beating well after each addition.
Spread about 2/3 of the batter into the prepared pan. Sprinkle it with all of the rhubarb pieces. Top with the rest of the batter, spreading it as evenly as possible but with a light touch--try not to push the rhubarb pieces into the bottom layer of batter. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean and the cake is golden brown.
Variation Replace the rhubarb with 2 1/2 cups of fresh blackberries.
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Baking time: 35 to 40 minutes
Equipment: 7 x 11-inch nonreactive baking dish, electric mixer
